Yellow Lemon Tree Pouch

Yellow Lemon Tree Pouch

Crochet

Friends

4″

    Needle and yarn

    Notes

    I used lemon yellow and black held together. It has a triangular base though. I couldn’t think of a suitable flap, so I made it a drawstring pouch.
    no lining
    Created in the round.

    Copyright Rohini Joseph

    CanCan Mobile pouch

    The CanCan pouch
    This year I’ve vowed to make as many gifts as I can. Not only is it more personal, it is also a gift of time and energy (at least that’s what I think). 
    Last weekend when I’d gone shopping with her for my grandmom, I showed her my version of the Swag Bag that I’d made for my grandmom’s birthday. She loved it and tried very hard to get me to give to her, but finally she relented after I promised to make her one too. She loves the colour red and the red & black combination is her favorite for clothing items/accessories. Her choice of colours? Red and Black! No surprise there!
    The following day (the eve of her birthday), I’d bought the materials for her bag and was about to start on it when I decided to surprise her and make her a small case for her cellphone. We were planning to go over at midnight with a small cake for her birthday and I hadn’t wrapped her actual gift as yet. So, the pouch and a red chain (the red crochet necklace that I mentioned earlier) I’d made in advance would be preview gifts. She liked the necklace, but wants me to put a small pendant on it. Not too sure about it, but I’m going to search for something. Any ideas?
    I love giving presents (and receiving them too), and the curbing of expenses for the next few months is going to be very difficult.
    I made this mobile pouch for my mom in just a few hours (I’m a slow crocheter, and it took me about 2.5 hours). I call it the CanCan pouch as the bright maroon (I thought the maroon looked better with the black) and the black reminded me the of the shiny dresses worn by CanCan dancers.
    For the cellphone pouch, I followed a similar method as the Kiss Me Bag at Crochet Spot for the base. After that it was simple shell stitch done in rounds. I didn’t have measurements for the phone and just estimated the height and width, though I’m happy to say that it did fit. Also, the pattern stretches quite a bit, so it is better to make it slightly smaller.
    My pouch was done in 2 colours, with me changing colours after every completed round.
    The base and the first round are done in the same colour.
    Pattern
    Craft: Crochet
    Level: Beginner/Easy
    Materials
    Yarn of your choice
    Corresponding crochet hook (this pattern looks better open and it stretches too)
    Button for clasp (optional)
    Tapestry needle and thread (optional)
    Stitches/Abbreviations used:
    Stitch (st)
    Single crochet (sc)
    Double crochet (dc)
    Fasten off (FO)
    Gauge: Gauge is not important in this pattern as it depends on the size of your starting chain. My pouch fit a
    phone that was 119.5 x 59.7 x 12.9 mm.
    Close up of the pouch
    Foundation row can be worked in multiples of 4 + 2 (for turning)
    Base
    Ch 10.
    Row1: sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in ea chain across.  Ch1 and turn (It is better to crochet the first row in the back ridges so that it is easier to do the rounds later).
    Row2-4: sc in ea st across.  Ch1 and turn.
    Row5: sc in ea st across. Ch1. Do not turn as we now start working in rounds
    We now move to the body of the pouch.
    Note: Shell = 3 dc in same st.
    Round 1: sc in first sc *(sk 1 sc, 3 dc in next sc, sk 1 sc, sc in next sc) 2 times, reaching the end of the row. Continue work along width of the base.
    Note: Our width is made up of 5 rows, but since the height of sc rows is shorter than the 3 sc across, we work our shell in the 3rd row.
    Sk 2 sc rows, shell in next, sk 2 sc rows*. Sc in next sc (longer side). Repeat * to * till the end of the other width. Sl st in first sc of round 1. (6 shells and 6 sc)
    Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1dc), 1 dc in same stitch. *Sk 1 dc, sc in next dc. (Sk 1 dc, shell in next sc.  Sk 1 dc, sc in next dc)* 5 times. Skip 1 dc, 1 dc in same stitch as the first 2 dc (Ch3+1dc) of the row. Sl st in top of beginning Ch3: 6 shells and 6 sc
    Round 3: Ch 1, sc in first stitch (beginning Ch3 of previous round). *Sk 1 dc, shell in next sc.  Sk 1 dc, sc in next dc:* around, replacing the last sc with a sl st to the first sc of the round: 6 shells and 6 sc
    Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 till the pouch is the desired size, ending with round 3. Once it is as big as you want it, move on to the finishing.
    Finishing
    Ch 3 (counts as 1dc), *Ch1, sk next dc, sc in next dc, Ch1, sk next dc, 1 dc in next sc,*. Repeat * to * 4 times. Ch1, sk next dc, sc in next dc, Ch1, sk next dc. Sl st to starting Ch3. FO.
    I didn’t add a button to fasten the pouch as my mom constantly fiddles with her phone, but you can create a clasp easily.
    The chain and the pouch. The colour here is almost true
    For a button enclosure.
    Instead of fastening off, you Ch1 and continue sc around till you come to the centre of one side. Create a loop by chaining the adequate number to go around the button of your choice (it should always be a little smaller than the button) and sc into the same stitch. Continue to sc across till you reach the end of the round. Sl to 1st stitch. FO.
    Attach a button on the opposite side of the pouch, in line with the loop created.
    Your pouch is ready!
    Get back to me if you have any questions.
    Copyright Rohini Joseph

    Chocolate in a bag!

    Complete!

     This year is my grandmom’s 70th birthday and I decided to make her a present rather than buying her something as firstly she is very finicky and usually wants to exchange presents and secondly I was out of ideas for new presents. 

    I chose the Swag bag by Marcelle’s Creative Crochet as my bag, as it looked small and I thought I could modify it to suit my grandmom’s tastes. The bag has been purposely kept free of other embellishments as my grandmother is very particular about colours and may not appreciate too many doodads on it.

    Without the handles

    I largely followed the pattern; only thing, I couldn’t make the required number of hdc rows as I was running out of yarn very quickly (I still had to finish the edging) and the shop had no more in the same shade. I went through 6 cones of the silk thread as I crocheted holding 2 strands together.

    Even with my slow crocheting and the bout of bad health, I finished the bag in 3 days, with another few hours for lining and fixing handles, clasps etc. The final bag is a little heavy and small, but has come out in a lovely chocolate colour. The pictures do not do portray the colour properly at all.

    My local yarn shop did not stock bag handles, so I bought 2 aluminum rings and covered them with golden silk thread, making sure the thread was wound very tight with no loose spaces.

    The toughest part of the bag was definitely the lining. I’ve never lined a bag before and doing it by hand is just so timec onsuming! I also added metallic push buttons for fastening.
    Phew!
    As I struggle with the lining
     and the handles 

    When I showed my mom the finished bag, she tried very hard to claim it as her own, and only relented when I promised to make her one of her own! More about that later.

    I completely forgot to take pics after I finished the bag as I was in a hurry to go out (as usual) and I’d already sent the bag with my mom so that she can give it in case I don’t make it on her birthday. I’ll put up more pics when I go over this weekend.
    I’ll also show off pics of my mom’s bag when I finish it. Though I’ve taken on so many projects right now I don’t know when that will be.

    EDT: I’ve added pics of the completed bag.

    clasps added too

    Copyright Rohini Joseph

    Keepsake Pouch

    The pouch when the drawstrings are tied.

    During the previous year’s Christmas enthusiasm, I was planning on making small pouches to give away some of our gifts, but the inexperienced crocheter I was, I underestimated the time it would take to finish the pouches.

    To start with, I chose the wrong crochet thread for my pouch – it takes a lot of time to crochet a decent-sized pouch with cotton crochet thread! I also got caught up with stuff and couldn’t even begin it in time!

    So, instead, I decided to make it for myself. No hurry at all, though when it was almost over I couldn’t help trying to finish faster. The gestation period was just so long!

    In the end, it has come out rather nice, and has interesting texture. I am including a basic pattern that can be modified as you go along.

    With the drawstrings open

    The pouch was crocheted in variegated cotton thread with a 1.75mm steel crochet hook. I tried to incorporate most of the stitches I’ve learnt in the past few months including single crochet, double crochet, shell stitch,  and crossed double crochet. Also, included was a small design in beads.

    There wasn’t any specific pattern followed for the pouch, but for the base at least I’ve stuck to the basics of increasing in the the round.

    Pattern
    The bag is worked in rounds, with the base in spirals.

    Materials
    Crochet thread/yarn – I used a size 10 thread with a 1.75mm crochet hook to end up with a bag that is about 11cm tall
    Appropriate crochet hook
    Beads
    Stitch marker – if you don’t have one, a simple paper clip will do.
    Tapestry needle.

    Method
    I’ve used the magic ring method to begin. If you want to try this or the foundation chain method, Crochet Me  has a good tutorial.

    If you are including beads in your design, now is the time to do so. For my concentric circles I added 8 black, followed by 1 in a contrasting colour and 8 more black. It is very important to add the beads in advance if you plan to work them into your design.

    The base. You can make out the spiral.

    Round 1
    To begin, chain 2. In 2nd chain from hook, work 7 sc. Insert stitch marker. (7st)
    Round 2
    2 single crochet (sc) in each stitch around (14st). Move stitch marker.

    Round 3
    *2 sc in 1st, 1 sc in next sc*. Repeat from * to* around (21st). Move stitch marker.
    Round 4
    *2 sc in 1st, 1 sc each in next 2sc*. Repeat from * to* around (28st). Move stitch marker.
    Round 5
    *2 sc in 1st, 1 sc each in next 3sc*. Repeat from * to* around (35st). Move stitch marker.

    Similarly, keep on increasing the base using the above method till it is wide enough for you. I stopped when I had 98st (Round 14 – *2 sc in 1st, 1 sc each in next 11sc*. Repeat from * to* around)


    To create the sides
    sc in each st around. Move stitch marker.
    Continue this till the bag’s sides start to take shape and you are ready for the detailing.


    Crossed double crochet round
    Chain 3. This will be your first dc. Skip the 2nd st, dc in next. Do a dc in the skipped stitch. For details check here. Repeat this all around till 1 st is left. End with a dc and slip st to the 1st stitch.

    A closeup of the bead design

    Single crochet round
    Sc in each st across

    Double crochet round
    Chain 3. Do a dc in each stitch across


    Single crochet round
    Sc in each st across till you are halfway around (49st). Now is the time to introduce the first bead. Insert hook in st, yarn over including the bead, making sure the bead is on the outside and is not pulled through. Complete the single crochet. Continue to do a sc in each st across till the end.

    Alternate the rounds with a double crochet round followed by a single crochet round.

    Add the beads on the single crochet round. 
    The stitch count is as follows
    From the bottom upwards:
    Single bead: sc 49, sc with bead, sc 48
    Two beads: sc 43,  sc with bead, sc 10,  sc with bead, sc 43
    Single bead: sc 49,  sc with bead, sc 48
    Two beads: sc 46,  sc with bead, sc 4,  sc with bead, sc 46
    Five beads: sc 40,  sc with bead,  sc 3, sc with bead, sc 3, sc with bead, sc 3, sc with bead, sc 3, sc with bead, sc 41

    After the last crossed double crochet round

    Two beads: sc 46,  sc with bead, sc 4,  sc with bead, sc 46
    Single bead: sc 49,  sc with bead, sc 48
    Two beads: sc 43,  sc with bead, sc 10,  sc with bead, sc 43
    Single bead: sc 49, sc with bead, sc 48


    After the beads are in stitched in, do one double crochet round, followed by a single crochet round and then a crossed double crochet round.

    After that, it is time to make the notches for the drawstring. 
    Chain 5, skip 2 st, *dc in next st, chain 2*. Repeat from * to * around the pouch till at last you end with a dc and 2 unworked sts. Chain 2 and slip stitch to the third chain of the first Chain5.

    Next, do one single crochet round, followed by one double crochet round, and a single crochet round.

    Close-up of the scalloped edging

    For the scalloped edging
    We do the shell stitch.
    For this, chain 3. This is your first dc. Do 8 more dc in the same stitch as the chain 3. Skip 5 stitches.
    *Do 9 dc in the next stitch, skip 4 stitches*. Repeat from * to * till the last shell.
    We are left with 5 unworked stitches. Skip it and join last shell to 1st shell and fasten off.

    Drawstring
    For the drawstring, I created a chain that was 2 times the circumference of the bag and then crocheted in the back ridges. It was completed by knotting the edges after putting it through the holes.

    I thoroughly enjoyed my bag and I’m currently using it to store my headphones.

    As usual, I hope this makes sense!  Thank you!

    Copyright Rohini Joseph

    Beaded Crochet Necklaces

    Purple = mine!

    As mentioned earlier, I used to love playing with beads. I was looking for a way to marry my love for beads with my new-found love for crochet, when I came across this Easy Beaded Crochet Technique by Amy Solovay. I used that technique and created a few necklaces of my own.

    Materials used:
    Beads
    Nylon thread for the base
    Crochet thread for the accent
    Appropriate crochet hooks
    Clasps/hooks

    A close up of the thread work.

    Though the technique shown largely used thicker thread, I stuck to using finer thread as it let the focus remain on the beads rather than on the thread. I am going to try it with thicker thread in case I use the same technique for an applique or something similar.

    The first one (purple beads) took me about 2 hours to make as I was learning and refining my technique as I went along. The beads are purple, with black thread work as accents. I was rather happy with it, though I regret that it is a little short.

    For mommy!

    The second one I made for my mom. She loves all things red and I hope she likes the chain I’ve made. Plus, her birthday is coming up in a few weeks and this will go wonderfully with the material I bought for her. She has already seen the material, so this should be a surprise. The beads were translucent and real shiny. The colour is best represented in the last pic – where Nemo is modelling it.

    I realized that the necklaces look very different with different bead types. The purple beads were largely oval in shape with some shaping on the surface, while the red ones were square beads.
    I even tried it with circular beads, but the crochet chains tend to slip off the bead and bunch up together.

    Close up of the red chain

    The thread work was best visible with the square ones and also stayed well on either side.
    Lesson: Beads with flatish sides work best to showcase the thread work.


    Even then, my husband asked me to pick up beads of the first kind for his sister. I shall post the pic of the completed necklace as soon as it is done. I was making this to make up for another project that I had started for her and finished even, but the final size was rather small; it would barely fit a child’s hand.

    Hope you liked them!

    Copyright Rohini Joseph

    Just strung – Beaded keychains

    The ‘V’ is only prominent in the light. Perfect for a guy.
    Before I took up crocheting, for a very long time I was an avid beader. I haven’t done much beading in the past few years, but still carry my bead box wherever I move. My projects were usually based on patterns and I’ve made a bunch of earrings, chains and bracelets and even a few purses. I’ve even made a few original chains which I shall put up pics later.
    Anyhow, to the topic at hand: We had people visiting in Jan this year and with only one week to go before they left for home, I realized that while I spent considerable time and effort for the kids’ gifts, I hadn’t really given the couple anything!

    We were looking for some small keepsake that could be personal, and even wouldn’t take up too much space. Too tied up with work to go shopping to look for things, I suggested that I make them small keychains that could be personalized. At that time I was optimistic that I’d be able to finish them in time (mind, I still had to assemble the kids’ scarves, besides the regular household chores and work).
    We chose white and red for my sis-in-law and shades of blue for the bro-in-law.
    The keychains were supposed to be in brick stitch, which allows lovely shapes as long as you get the technique right. The keychains would be rectangular, with the person’s initial in the centre. The letters were inspired from the picture on this page.
    The first one I made for my sis had to be cut up as I found an error in the letter. However, I only have pictures of that combination as I finally finished the keychain while waiting outside their place, just before I presented them!

     The blue one I managed to get pictures of after I completed it.

    To finish the keychain, I attached one end of the rectangle to the key ring and fastened it by going round the two a few times. 

    I was rather happy with how they turned out. I plan to make a few more as and when I get the time! 

    Copyright Rohini Joseph

    Puppies! (and a scarf)

    The finished scarf

    The final in my series of animal inspired scarves is this beautiful Weiner Puppy Neck Warmer by Randomheartx at Craftster. After seeing this scarf, I was actually inspired to start making scarves for my nieces. (I am including my modified pattern in the post.)
    I love puppies and thought this was just cute!
    However, I can rarely do something without adding my own twist to it. And that’s just what I did. Though, my final scarf looked a little like a mouse. The intended niece even asked me if it was a rat. I managed to convince her that it was a puppy because of the collar!
    I’ve largely followed Randomheartx’s pattern, but just added a few more rows and changed stitches a little bit for texture.
    My modified Puppy Scarf
    Craft: Crochet
    Level: Beginner/Easy
    Body detail
    Materials:
    2 skeins of brown 8-ply wool
    A little bit of a contrasting colour for the collar
    Buttons/safety eyes for the eyes, nose
    5 mm crochet hook
    Tapestry needle
    Note: You can use any weight of wool/yarn as you like. Local shops here do not really know the different types and stock them mostly as 4-ply/8-ply etc. Luckily, the yarn I got for it was the softest thing around and even though it was a little wide, the scarf sat just beautifully around the neck.
    Stitches/Abbreviations used:
    Stitch (st)
    Single crochet (sc)
    Double crochet (dc)
    Decrease/Stitch together (2tog)
    Fasten off (FO)
    Gauge: Gauge is not important in this pattern we can adjust the length of the feet accordingly at the end. The length is determined by the number of rows that you crochet. Decide for yourself what length you want your own scarf to be. Mine was about 4.5 feet (138cms).

    Pattern

    We start from the base of the face and continue in one piece till the tail.
    Face
    To begin: Chain 2
    Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1 and turn (1st)
    Row 2: 2 sc in 1 sc, ch 1 and turn (3st)
    Row 3: 2 sc in 1 sc, sc in next 1, 2 sc in last sc, ch 1 and turn (5st)
    Row 4: 2 sc in 1 sc, sc in next 3, 2 sc in last sc, ch1 and turn (7st)
    Row 5: 2 sc in 1 sc, sc in next 5, 2 sc in last sc, ch1 and turn (9st)
    Row 6: 2 sc in 1 sc, sc in next 7, 2 sc in last sc, ch1 and turn (11st)
    Row 7: 2 sc in 1 sc, sc in next 9, 2 sc in last sc, ch1 and turn (13st)
    Row 8: 2 sc in 1 sc, sc in next 11, 2 sc in last sc, ch1 and turn (15st)
    Row 9: sc in each sc across, ch2 and turn (15st)
    Row 10: dc in each sc across, ch2 and turn (15st)
    Repeat Row 10 till the scarf reaches the desired length.
    You are now ready for the puppy’s bottom and tail
    Bottom & Tail
    Row x: dc 2 sts tog, dc in next 11, dc 2 sts tog, ch2 and turn (13st)
    Row x1: dc 2 sts tog, dc in next 11, dc 2 sts tog, ch2 and turn (11st)
    Row x2: dc 2 sts tog, dc in next 11, dc 2 sts tog, ch2 and turn (9st)
    Row x3: dc 2 sts tog, dc in next 11, dc 2 sts tog, ch2 and turn (7st)
    Row x4: dc 2 sts tog, dc in next 11, dc 2 sts tog, ch1 and turn (5st)
    Row x5: sc in each sc across, ch1 and turn (5st)
    Row x6-13: sc in each sc across, ch1 and turn (5st)
    Row x14: sc in 3 sc across, sc next 2 sts tog, ch1 and turn (4st)
    Close up of the face
    Row x11 x15: sc in 2 sc across, sc next 2 sts tog, ch1 and turn (3st)
    Row x12 x16: sc in 1 sc across, sc next 2 sts tog, FO (2st)
    Ears – make 2
    To begin: Chain 8
    Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each sc across (7st)
    Row 2-7: sc in each sc across, ch 1 and turn (7st)
    Row 8: sc in 6 sc across, sc next 2 sts tog, ch1 and turn (6st)
    Row 9: sc in 5 sc across, sc next 2 sts tog, ch1 and turn (5st)
    Row 10: sc in 4 sc across, sc next 2 sts tog, ch1 and turn (4st)
    Row 11: sc in 3 sc across, sc next 2 sts tog, FO (3st)
    Nemo’s stamp of approval on the collar!
    Strap
    On the back of the scarf, there is a strap to tuck the tail in.
    To begin: Chain 6
    Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each sc across (5st)
    Repeat Row 1 till the strap is two rows longer than the width of your scarf. FO
    Collar
    Pick a contrasting colour and repeat the instructions for the strap (Chain 6, sc in each across) until it is long enough to wrap around the widest part of the scarf. FO
    Stitch the two ends together to create a band.
    For the eyes and nose, I used fancy buttons and stitched them in place. I used white thread for the eyes and black thread for the nose.
    Sew the ears in place. Note: The ears have to be pasted at an angle.
    Attach the strap to the back of the scarf and make sure to go over the collar. This allows the collar to move like on a real puppy and also keeps it in place.
    And you’re done!
    Get back to me if you have any questions.
    Copyright Rohini Joseph

    A scarf is requested

    Ready for the wearer!
    After making those scarves for my nieces, my husband requested that I make him one too. Considering all the running around he did with me while we bought materials and approved/rejected designs for the earlier scarves, I decided he ought to be rewarded. The fact that we were currently going through a cold wave also helped things in his favour.
    He ideally wanted a simple single crochet scarf (yes, he sort of knows the difference!), but I wanted to experiment.
    After a lot of searching I settled on the Paul’s “Sweet Guy” Scarf at Wolfcrochet!

    I couldn’t really follow the pattern to a T as after chaining the prescribed number, it was only 2 feet long (all because shops here do not follow the weight method for defining yarn!). Instead, I kept adding chains till it was the desired length and then went on to row 2.

    Trying out colour combinations
    It is Long!
    My scarf had lesser rows as he didn’t want something too wide.
    After a lot of setbacks – we ran out of colour, the shop didn’t stock that type of yarn anymore, etc – I finally finished it about 2 weeks later. The final length was about 5ft (152cm) and width about 8″ (~21cm).
    I also added a border along the breadth in the last colour, more so to cover my mistakes than anything else! 🙂
    Needless to say he loved it! Though, he hasn’t worn it as yet, as it is back to being hot here. Hopefully he’ll use it at our upcoming trip.
    Copyright Rohini Joseph

    Presenting Ms Kitten

    I am finally putting down the pattern for the kitten scarf. It is very similar to the piggy scarf I’d posted earlier. I’m still waiting to get better pictures of the scarves as I have already gifted them.
    Before ends were tucked in

    Feel free to point out any mistakes that you find.
    The pattern is listed below:

    Craft: Crochet
    Level: Beginner/Easy

    Materials:
    1 skein of yellow 8-ply wool (Main colour; MC)
    1 skein of orange 8-ply wool (Contrasting colour; CC)
    button/safety eyes for the eyes
    A little bit of black wool/thread for the whiskers/mouth

    5 mm crochet hook
    Fabric glue
    tapestry needle

    Note: You can use any weight of wool/yarn as you like. Local shops here do not really know the different types and stock them mostly as 4-ply/8-ply etc.


    Stitches used:
    Single crochet (sc)

    Crocheting in the round

    Slip stitch (sl st)

    Gauge: Gauge is not important in this pattern we can adjust the length of the feet accordingly at the end. The length is determined by the number of rows that you crochet. Decide for yourself what length you want your own scarf to be. Mine was about 3 feet (91cms).

    Pattern
    We start from the base of the face and continue in one piece till we split the body at the end for the legs.

    Face
     To begin: Chain 6 in MC
    Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in ea of next 3 chs, ch 1 and turn (6sc)
    Row 2: 2 sc in 1 sc, sc in next 5, ch 1 and turn (7sc)
    Row 3: 2 sc in 1 sc, sc in next 6, ch 1 and turn (8sc)
    Row 4: 2 sc in 1 sc, sc in next 7, ch 1 and turn (9sc)
    Row 5: 2 sc in 1 sc, sc in next 8, ch 1 and turn (10sc)

    Row 6: 2 sc in 1 sc, sc in next 9, ch 1 and turn (11sc)
    Row 7: 2 sc in 1 sc, sc in next 10, ch 1 and turn (12sc)
    Row 8: 2 sc in 1 sc, sc in next 11, ch 1 and turn (13sc)
    Row 9: 2 sc in 1 sc, sc in next 12, ch 1 and turn (14sc)
    Row 10: 2 sc in 1 sc, sc in next 13, ch 1 and turn (15sc)
    Row 11-23: sc in each sc across, ch1 and turn (15sc)

    Body
    The body of the scarf is basically alternate bands of yellow and orange. This continues till just before the feet.
    We now change colours. I usually carry the colours with my work, by working it into the side. You can always just cut it at the end of one band, but in the end you will have a lot of ends to tuck in. The page at Crochet Cabana has good tips on changing colours.
    Row 24: Using CC, sc in each sc across, ch1 and turn (15sc)
    Row 25: Using CC, sc in each sc across, ch1 and turn (15sc)
    Row 26: Using CC, sc in each sc across, ch1 and turn (15sc)
    Row 27: Using CC, sc in each sc across, ch1 and turn (15sc)
    We change colours again.
    Row 28: Using MC, sc in each sc across, ch1 and turn (15sc)
    Row 29: Using MC, sc in each sc across, ch1 and turn (15sc)
    Row 30: Using MC, sc in each sc across, ch1 and turn (15sc)
    Row 31: Using MC, sc in each sc across, ch1 and turn (15sc)
    Continue Rows 24-27 and Rows 28-31 till the scarf just about reaches the desired length and you are ready to make the feet. Note, your last band should be a combination of Row 28-31.

    Feet
    For the first foot: Continue on the body of the scarf already made using the MC
    Row 1: Using MC, sc in 5sc across, ch1 and turn (5sc)
    Row 2: Using MC, sc in 5sc across, ch1 and turn (5sc)
    Row 3: Using MC, sc in 5sc across, ch1 and turn (5sc)
    Row 4: Using MC, sc in 5sc across, ch1 and turn (5sc)
    Row 5: Using MC, sc in 5sc across, ch1 and turn (5sc)
    Row 6: Using MC, sc in 5sc across, ch1 and turn (5sc) 

    We now change colours
    Row 7: Using CC, sc in 5sc across, ch1 and turn (5sc)
    Row 8: Using CC, sc in 5sc across, ch1 and turn (5sc)
    Row 9: Using CC, sc in 5sc across, ch1 and turn (5sc)
    Row 10: Using CC, sc in 3sc across, sc next 2 sts tog , ch1 and turn (4sc)
    Row 11: Using CC, sc in 2sc across, sc next 2 sts tog, ch1 and turn (3sc)
    Row 12: Using CC, sc in 1sc across, sc next 2 sts tog, fo (2sc)

    For the second foot:

    Start on the same side as the first foot and skip 5sc after the first foot. Start on the 6th sc.
    Alternatively, you can count 5sts from the other end and start at the 5th sc.
    Note: make sure you start on the same side you did the first foot so that the feet are symmetrical.

    Row 1: Using MC, sc in 5sc across, ch1 and turn (5sc)
    Row 2: Using MC, sc in 5sc across, ch1 and turn (5sc)
    Row 3: Using MC, sc in 5sc across, ch1 and turn (5sc)
    Row 4: Using MC, sc in 5sc across, ch1 and turn (5sc)
    Row 5: Using MC, sc in 5sc across, ch1 and turn (5sc)
    Row 6: Using MC, sc in 5sc across, ch1 and turn (5sc) 

    We now change colours
    Row 7: Using CC, sc in 5sc across, ch1 and turn (5sc)
    Row 8: Using CC, sc in 5sc across, ch1 and turn (5sc)
    Row 9: Using CC, sc in 5sc across, ch1 and turn (5sc)
    Row 10: Using CC, sc in 3sc across, sc next 2 sts tog , ch1 and turn (4sc)
    Row 11: Using CC, sc in 2sc across, sc next 2 sts tog, ch1 and turn (3sc)
    Row 12: Using CC, sc in 1sc across, sc next 2 sts tog, fo (2sc)


    Ears – make 2
    The whole thing is done in 1 colour.

    To begin: Chain 6 in CC.
    Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in ea of next 4ch, ch1 and turn (5sc)
    Row 2: sc in 5sc across, ch1 and turn (5sc)
    Row 3: sc in 5sc across, ch1 and turn (5sc)
    Row 4: sc in 3sc across, sc next 2 sts tog , ch1 and turn (4sc)
    Row 5: sc in 2sc across, sc next 2 sts tog, ch1 and turn (3sc)
    Row 6: sc in 1sc across, sc next 2 sts tog, ch1 and turn (2sc)
    Row 7: sc next 2 sts tog, fo (1sc) 

    Nose
    I use the magic ring method to crochet in the round. You can find a tutorial for that at Crochet Me.

    To begin: Chain 2
    Round 1: 5sc in 2nd ch from hook, sl stitch to 1st sc. FO
    Pull the tail and draw it closed.
    Attaching the pieces using the tapestry needle
    For the mouth and whiskers
    Close up of the face
    Cut 4 strings of the black wool/thread (6-8 inches each). Tie them together in the middle with a knot. Find the centre of the scarf on the row above where the face has finished widening (2nd row of 15 sc). Stick the knot at the centre identified above. Use the lower most string and bring it below to form the mouth. Stick it in place using fabric glue. Stitch the nose over the knot.

    I hope the picture helps demonstrate what I mean.

    The ears can be placed last. Align them with the eyes.

    Hope this makes sense!

    Please tell me how you like it by leaving a comment!
    Thanks.

    Copyright Rohini Joseph

    Piggy scarf

    As I’d mentioned earlier, I decided to do the piggy scarf after being unsatisfied with the final material of my earlier scarf. The piggy was so adorable that I just had to make it! When I was done I was almost tempted to keep him for myself.

    My completed scarf

    This is my first pattern. So, if something doesn’t work out, please ask. Feel free to point out any mistakes that you find.
    The pattern is listed below:

    Craft: Crochet
    Level: Beginner/Easy

    Materials:
    1 skein of light pink 8-ply wool
    A little bit of darker pink
    button/safety eyes for the eyes
    5 mm crochet hook
    tapestry needle

    Note: You can use any weight of wool/yarn as you like. Local shops here do not really know the different types and stock them mostly as 4-ply/8-ply etc.


    Stitches/Abbreviations used:
    Stitch (st)
    Single crochet (sc)
    Half double crochet (hdc)
    Crocheting in the round
    Decrease/Stitch together (tog)
    Fasten off (FO)

    Gauge: Gauge is not important in this pattern we can adjust the length of the feet accordingly at the end. The length is determined by the number of rows that you crochet. Decide for yourself what length you want your own scarf to be.

    How the bottom looks when worn

    Pattern
    We start from the base of the face and continue in one piece till we split the body at the end for the legs.


    Face/Body
    To begin: Chain 6
    Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in ea of next 3 chs, ch 1 and turn (5st)
    Row 2: 2 sc in 1 st, sc in next 3, 2 sc in last st, ch1 and turn (7st)
    Row 3: 2 sc in 1 st, sc in next 5, 2 sc in last st, ch1 and turn (9st)
    Row 4: 2 sc in 1 st, sc in next 7, 2 sc in last st, ch1 and turn (11st)
    Row 5: 2 sc in 1 st, sc in next 9, 2 sc in last st, ch1 and turn (13st)
    Row 6: 2 sc in 1 st, sc in next 11, 2 sc in last st, ch1 and turn (15st)
    Row 7: sc in each st across, ch1 and turn (15st)
    Row 8-18: sc in each st across, ch2 and turn (15st)
    Row 19: hdc in each sc across, ch2 and turn (15st)
    Repeat Row 19 till the scarf just about reaches the desired length and you are ready to make the feet.
    Row x:  hdc in each sc across, ch1 and turn (15st)


    Feet
    For the first foot: Continue on the body of the scarf already made
    Row x1: sc in 5st across, ch1 and turn (5st)
    Row x2-x9: sc in 5st across, ch1 and turn (5st)
    Row x10: sc in 3 st across, sc next 2tog , ch1 and turn (4st)
    Row x11: sc in 2 st across, sc next 2tog, ch1 and turn (3st)
    Row x12: sc in 1 st across, sc next 2tog, FO (2st)

    For the second foot:
    Start on Row x and skip 5st after the first foot. Start on the 6th st.
    Alternatively, you can count 5sts from the other end of Row x and start at the 5th st.
    Note: make sure you start on the same side you did the first foot so that the feet are symmetrical.

    the ears

    Row x1: sc in 5st across, ch1 and turn (5st)

    Row x2-x9: sc in 5st across, ch1 and turn (5st)
    Row x10: sc in 3 st across, sc next 2tog , ch1 and turn (4st)
    Row x11: sc in 2 st across, sc next 2tog, ch1 and turn (3st)
    Row x12: sc in 1 st across, sc next 2tog, FO (2st)

    Ears – make 2
    To begin: Chain 6
    Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in ea of next 4ch, ch1 and turn (5st)
    Row 2-3: sc in 5st across, ch1 and turn (5st)
    Row 4: sc in 3sc across, sc next 2tog , ch1 and turn (4sc)
    Row 5: sc in 2st across, sc next 2tog, ch1 and turn (3st)
    Row 6: sc in 1st across, sc next 2tog, ch1 and turn (2s1)
    Row 7: sc next 2tog, FO (1st) 

    the face before attaching the ears

    Snout
    To begin: Chain 5
    Round 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in ea of next 3ch, sc again in last ch and work in the back ridge of your foundation chain, 4sc across, sc again in last back ridge. (10st)
    Round 2: 2 sc in each st (20 st)
    Round 3: *2 sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next st*, continue from *to * till last st, FO (30 st)

    Attach all the pieces using the tapestry needle, taking care that the snout starts from the lower part of the face where the face is almost done widening. I hope the picture helps demonstrate what I mean.

    Figuring out the placement for the ears

    Use the light pink to add the 2 lines for the nostril. Can be done either before joining pieces or while joining pieces.

    The ears can be placed last. Align them with the eyes.

    Hope this makes sense!

    Please tell me how you like it by leaving a comment!
    Thanks.

    Update: I added more pictures, including a close up of the face for placement.

    Copyright Rohini Joseph